After the pump is deactivated, the remaining water in the pump and the pipeline should be drained, and the external soil should be cleaned to prevent the water and ice from bursting after the water freezes.
For the cast iron parts such as the bottom valve and elbow of the pump, the rust should be brushed with a wire brush, and then the anti-rust paint should be applied first, then painted, and then placed in the machine room or storage room in a dry and ventilated place.
Drive with a belt, remove the belt, wash it with warm water, hang it in a dry place, where there is no direct sunlight, and do not store it in places with oil, corrosives and smoke. Under no circumstances should the belt be stained with oil, diesel or gasoline, and not rosin and other viscous materials.
Check ball bearings, such as inner casing wear, sway, ball wear or spots on the surface. Clean the bearings, grease, and refill the available gasoline or kerosene that does not need to be replaced.
Check the impeller of the pump for cracks or small holes. If the impeller fixing nut is loose, repair or replace it if it is damaged. If the impeller wears too much or is damaged, the new impeller should normally be replaced. Partial damage can be repaired, or the impeller can be repaired with epoxy resin mortar. The repaired impeller should generally be subjected to static balance test. Check the clearance at the impeller reducing ring. If it exceeds the specified value, it should be repaired or replaced.
The pump shaft that is severely bent or worn should be repaired or replaced, otherwise it will cause imbalance of the rotor and wear of related parts.
The removed screws are soaked in diesel oil and brushed with a wire brush, and then coated with oil or butter. Re-installed or wrapped in plastic cloth (can also be immersed in diesel oil) to avoid rust or loss.